Dr. Dirt’s Janitor & Cleaning Supplies

I don’t pretend to be the final arbiter on this topic, however I spend a large amount of my time studying the issues and selling products I am confident meet an acceptable standard. There is way too much “greenwashing”, taking a product and repackaging it as green, chemicals, equipment and many other categories. So as always beware.

Third party certification is an issue that you should learn more about. At this point Green Seal has the most visibility with my customers. It has done a lot of pioneering on the standards and products carrying their label should be considered. I have been impressed with the efforts of Design for the Environment (Dfe) in the chemical area and see them as the potential leader in third party approval standards. Green Label for equipment is helpful but I think leaves room for improvement. A new player is called cleangredients which is an EPA initiative to define what are green raw materials that should be used in formulating new products.

Self-certification is something that should be closely examined before you accept someone’s word about it being green. Keep in mind not all categories of products have defined standards. However I have found a number of self-certified green products that are to my examination are acceptable and useful for my customers.

So don’t be afraid to leap in and try to find what you are looking for. Just beware study a little and as always things are not always what someone says they are.

Dr Dirt

1. Dust buildup can acutally cause small scratches in wood finish. Regular dusting will protect the finish on the wood. Always dust gently, following the grain of the wood.
2. Polish with a paste or liquid wax to protect the wood, prolong the life of the finish and minimize dust buildup.
3. Avoid direct sunlight and heat. Heat can cause the wood to warp or split, while exposure to sunlight can cause the finish to crack.
4. Use a colored wax or stain stick to cover small scratches and nicks. Wax sticks protect the wood and help to camouflage the scratch; stain sticks hide light scratches.

It’s Friday! Happy cleaning from Dr. Dirt

Today I have a quick post about the different kinds of floor cleaners and what floor surfaces to use them with.

Unless the areas that you are cleaning have one kind of floor throughout, you will have to deal with different cleaning methods depending on the different kinds of hard-surface floors. The first step toward efficient floor cleaning is to know what your floor is made of. What works for one surface may ruin another.

Wood floors, for example should be cleaned with solved or solvent-based cleaning wax. Never use water solutions or cleaners that have to be rinsed off with water on wood floors; this will cause the wood to swell.

Ceramic tile floors (glazed or unglazed) should be damp-mod cleaned with an all-purpose cleaner. Avoid using harsh abrasive cleaners that might scratch glazed ceramic floors and never use acids or strong soaps on unglazed ceramic floors.

The first time you use any procedure on any floor, test it on an out-of-the-way part of the floor to be sure that it does not damage the flooring or finish.

Got any specific questions? Ask ‘em at the Ask Dr. Dirt page and I’ll try to get them answered soon.

Until tomorrow, happy cleaning from Dr. Dirt.

This just crossed the good doctor’s desk this morning…

According to a recent study at the University of Arizona, bulk soap dispensers are at risk for soap contamination due to their refilling style. These dispensers use a reusable container that is refilled by hand, increasing the potential for soap contamination. To ensure the health and safety of washroom patrons, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s cleaning and sanitizing instructions to thoroughly wash the reusable container between each refill. It is also important to train your employees in proper refill procedures. Sealed bag-in-box refills are an alternative to bulk dispensing systems. These refills are sealed during the manufacturing process and are discarded when empty, helping to prevent the potential for contamination.

Seems like it’s a good thing I carry some great bag-in-box soap dispensers over on AJS. Send me an email using the Ask Dr. Dirt page if you have a question or want some more personal advice.

Till next time, Happy Cleaning!

Dr. Dirt

Hello avid fans, today I have a few notes about the different types of cleaning wipers.

Airlaid wipers are thick and soft, with a cloth-like feel. They can be rinsed and reused, and are an economical choice. Airlaid wipers absorb grease and oil. They are available in both economy and heavy-duty grades.

Scrim reinforced wipers are multi-ply for extra absorbency. They are reinforced for extra durability and tear resistance. Use these for medium to heavy-duty jobs. Scrim reinforced wipers do not streak; they are ideal for glass and smooth surface cleaning.

DRC (double recrepe) wipers are extra thick, with a cloth-like feel. They have undergone a double recreping process, making them extremely soft yet strong. DRC wipers are ideal for medium-duty applications. They are highly absorbent in water, grease and oil.

Got any other questions? Have me give you an answer in an upcoming post by asking your question on the Ask Dr. Dirt page.

Happy Cleaning!

Dr. Dirt

Q&A about Urinal & Bowl Blocks

Q: What are ‘para block deodorants?

A: Para block deodorants are air-activated, freshen the air and eliminate undesireable odors. Made from paradichlorobenzene (hence the ‘para’) saturated with liquid deodorants.

Q: What does ‘enzymatic’ mean?

A: There is another category of para block deodorants called ‘enzymatic para block deodorants’ that combine standard para blocks with the addition of beneficial bacteria. The bacteria release enzymes that consumer the odor’s source, effectively and permanently eliminating odors.

Q: What does ‘non-para’ mean?

A: Non-para block deodorants are water-activated, blue the water, counteract odors and fight bacteria growth. They contain no paradichlorobenzene.

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Check out my supply of non-para, enzymatic and plain old regular para block deodorants over at Advanced Janitor Supply.

Happy Cleaning!

Dr. Dirt

Use this chart as a guideline for diluting chemical cleaning products. 1:x means 1 part concentrate to x parts water. For example, to make a quart of solution in a 1:15 dilution, mix 2 oz. of concentrate into 30 oz. of water. (NOTE: To minimize foaming, fill the container with water before adding the concentrate. Then stir thoroughly.)

Before we get started, here is a simple conversion chart:

And the dilution chart:

And, as always bulk chemicals are available from my website, AdvancedJanitorialSupply.com.

Happy Cleaning!

Dr. Dirt

The classifications listed below were formerly approved by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) which regulates meat and poultry establishments; these classifications are now issued by the National Sanitation Foundations (NSF), follow the same guidelines and have the same classification codes as the USDA. Products authorized by the NSF/USDA for use in plants operating under the federal meat and poulty program are classified according to where or how they may be used. The following summarizes brief definitions of NSF/USDA classifications:

Table of NSF/USDA Classifications

A1 - For use as general cleaning agents on all surfaces, or for use with steam or mechanical cleaning devices in all departments.

A4 - Floor and wall cleaners for all departments.

A6 - Scouring cleaners.

A7 - Metal cleaners and polishers for nonfood contact surfaces.

A8 - Degreasers or carbon removers for food cooking or smoking equipment, utensils or other associated surfaces. No food contact.

B1 - For laundering fabrics that come into contact with meat or poultry products, directly or indirectly.

C1 - For use on all surfaces in processing areas for inedible products, non-processing areas and/or exterior areas.

C2 - Compounds for use in toilets and/or dressing areas.

D1 - Antimicrobial agents, always requiring a rinse.

D2 - Sanitizers for all surfaces, not always requiring a rinse.

E2 - Hand washing and sanitizing compounds.

E4 - Hand creams, lotions and cleaners. Use is limited to toilet and dressing rooms.

F1 - Nonresidual pesticides. For use in all departments.

F2 - Residual pesticides. For use in inedible product areas only.

G7 - Compounds for treating boilers, steam lines and/or cooling systems where neither treated water nor the steam produced may contact edible products. This does not include compounds added to water used to cook and cool containers or meat and poultry products.

H1 - Lubricants with incidental food contact.

H2 - Lubricant, release agent, or anti-rust film on equipment and machine parts in locations in which there is no possibility of the lubricant or lubricated part contacting edible products.

K1 - Cleaning and/or degreasing solvents for use in non-processing areas.

K2 - Solvents for cleaning electronic instruments.

L1 - Compounds for use in sewage and/or drain lines.

L2 - Enzymatic compounds for use in sewage and/or drain lines.

P1 - Miscellaneous. See individual letter for specific authorized uses.

Keeping it factual,

Dr. Dirt

“Green cleaning” refers to the use of products and procedures that are more healthful and more environmentally friendly than others serving the same function. The Environmental Standard for Cleaning Services (GS-42) is Green Seal’s current standard that specifies green chemicals, supplies, and equipment as well as cleaning procedures and mandates employee training and communication with building owners and occupants. Here are some tips to

Green Cleaning Tips

• Carefully plan and time the chemical cleaning process. Keep a schedule of events and plan to disinfect high-traffic areas and entrances more frequently than those areas where access is limited.
• Identify Occupants with special needs and implement a plan sensitive to those needs. For instance, if there are allergies to the chemicals used in cleaning, or any other allergies, be sure to design the cleaning process to avoid exposing occupants. In order to identify effectively, get the word out and invite anyone with concerns to notify the staff of their specific needs.
• Reduce chemical waste by using dilution methods as instructed by the manufacturer, tracking quantities of chemicals used and using appropriate dispensing technology to limit overuse of chemicals.
• Improve indoor air quality by maintaining sufficient outdoor ventilation. Ventilate properly when chemicals are being used in cleaning. Design a ventilation system where airflow is properly reaching the interior of the building.
• Chemicals aren’t the only things releasing VOCs. Certain cleaning equipment releases harmful emissions. To reduce the impact of these effects, properly maintain your equipment and/or replace with VOC Compliant ones.
• Disinfection should be limited to surfaces where pathogens collect, such as door handles, bathrooms and other high-traffic surfaces where there is much hand contact.

For more tips, try a Google search on ‘Green cleaning‘. You can find green cleaning products & more at AdvancedJanitorSupply.com.

Happy cleaning!

Dr. Dirt

This centralized collection solution for consumer waste and recycling sortation needs features a 92-gallon combined capacity with segmentation for up to four separate 23-gallon waste containers. The restrictive-opening tops with iconic and word labels guide sortation and minimize contamination. The unifying station lid frame has a center hinge for easy emptying without removing the entire lid. This product will work great for your sorted recycling needs.